Best Sublimation Paper in 2026: Which One for Your Projects?

Updated: March 18, 2026

Choosing the best sublimation paper matters more than most beginners realize. You can have an excellent printer, premium ink, and perfect heat press settings, but if the paper cannot hold and release the ink properly, your transfers will come out faded, blotchy, or with visible lines.

The confusing part is that sublimation paper is not just “one thing.” Different papers have different weights (GSM), different coatings, and different release rates. Those differences actually matter depending on what you are sublimating. A paper that wraps perfectly around mugs might give you trouble on shirts, and vice versa.

I compared 8 sublimation papers below, organized by what each one does best. Whether you are just starting out or looking to upgrade from whatever came with your printer, this guide will help you pick the right paper for your projects.

Best Sublimation Papers at a Glance (2026)

Paper	GSM	Best For	Price Range	Level
A-SUB	105 / 120 / 125	All-rounder, every substrate	Mid-range	Best overall
TexPrint-R / DTR Heavy	Heavy desktop variant	Photo work, color-sensitive prints	Premium	Premium pick
TexPrint XPHR / DT Light	Light desktop variant	Hard/soft substrates, bold graphics	Premium	Versatile premium
ProSub	105	Best price-to-quality ratio	Budget	Best value
Printers Jack	120	Budget all-rounder, beginners	Budget	Budget pick
HTVRONT	120	Easy availability, starter kits	Budget	Best availability
Hiipoo	120	Pairing with Hiipoo ink	Mid-range	Best ink match
Koala	Heavier options available	High-volume production, easy handling	Budget	Bulk pick

What GSM Means — and Which Weight for Which Project

GSM stands for grams per square meter — it tells you how thick and heavy the paper is. For sublimation, you will see numbers between 100 and 130 GSM. As a rule of thumb, thinner papers often wrap curved items a little more easily, while heavier papers can feel more stable on flat projects and in humid rooms. But GSM alone does not decide print quality — coating, printer settings, ink load, and storage matter just as much.

GSM Range	Best For	Why
100–110 GSM	Often preferred for curved items	Usually easier to wrap tightly; can feel a bit livelier in some setups
115–120 GSM	General-purpose use	Good balance of handling, drying, and everyday reliability
120–125+ GSM	Beginners, flatter projects, humid rooms	Often easier to handle and less prone to curling

My tip: If you are just starting out, go with 120-125gsm. It is much more forgiving because it feeds through your printer without jamming and does not curl. Once you are comfortable and want to chase maximum vibrancy, try 105gsm on your next mug project. The difference is often subtle in home setups.

1. A-SUB — Best Overall Sublimation Paper

A-SUB is one of the papers beginners run into first, largely because it is easy to find and sold in a lot of sizes. It works with common Epson EcoTank sublimation setups, dries quickly after printing, and produces consistently good results on most substrates like mugs, shirts, keychains, tumblers, canvas, glass.

A-SUB is commonly sold in 105gsm, 120gsm, and 125gsm versions, depending on size and seller. For most home crafters, the main choice is usually between the thinner 105gsm style and the heavier 120–125gsm options. Some crafters prefer thinner paper for curved blanks because it wraps more easily and can feel a little punchier in certain setups, but the difference is usually smaller than your heat settings and color profile. The heavier versions are easier to handle, feed more reliably, and are more forgiving for beginners. Both work well — if you are just starting out, the 125gsm is the safer choice.

The 110-sheet pack in 8.5×11″ is the most popular option. If you need larger sheets for wide-format printers like the ET-15000, A-SUB also makes 13×19″ sheets.

How to identify the coated side: A-SUB has text printed on the back (uncoated) side. Print on the blank, brighter, slightly shinier side. If you hold both sides up to light, the coated side looks noticeably whiter.

Best for: Crafters who want one paper that works reliably for everything without overthinking it.

2. TexPrint-R — Best for Color Vibrancy

If you care a lot about color consistency and are willing to pay more, TexPrint is one of the better-known premium options. For Epson EcoTank users, sellers often point you toward the lighter TexPrint desktop variant, while the heavier DT-R paper is positioned differently. Product naming varies by seller, so always check the exact paper type and weight before ordering.

TexPrint papers are known for fast drying, strong color transfer, and consistent handling. The practical result is colors that can look a touch more vivid compared to budget papers. This matters most for photo-realistic prints, portraits, and designs with subtle color gradients.

The trade-off is price. TexPrint costs significantly more per sheet than A-SUB or budget options. For everyday projects like mugs with text or simple graphics, the color difference may not justify the cost.

My tip: If you are printing photos or portraits, a TexPrint paper is worth trying. Many crafters notice more accurate skin tones and color gradients compared to budget papers.

Best for: Photo gifts and any project where color accuracy is the priority.

3. TexPrint XPHR — Most Versatile Premium Paper

TexPrint XPHR (now sold as TexPrint DT Light) is widely positioned as a hybrid sublimation paper that works well on both hard substrates (mugs, glass, acrylic) and soft substrates (shirts, tote bags). For Epson EcoTank users, this is typically the more relevant TexPrint variant.

Many crafters find that XPHR-style papers look a bit punchier for bold graphics and stronger contrast, while the heavier TexPrint variants can look more neutral and closer to your original artwork. For photographs and portraits, the heavier variant is often preferred. For bold graphics, logos, and vibrant designs, XPHR-style papers tend to stand out more.

Some users also prefer XPHR-style papers for darker graphics and stronger contrast in black areas.

Best for: Crafters who work with both hard and soft substrates and want one premium paper for everything.

4. ProSub — Best Value (Price vs. Quality)

ProSub has become a popular value option among budget-conscious crafters and some retailers. The main appeal is simple: solid print quality at a lower per-sheet cost than many premium-branded options.

The paper scores high on usability. The backing is clearly marked so you always know which side to print on, and the packaging includes printed instructions.

The main limitation is availability. ProSub is not as widely stocked on Amazon as A-SUB or Printers Jack. You may need to order from specialty suppliers like Swing Design. But if you can get it, the combination of price and usable print quality makes it a strong value option.

My tip: If you have been using A-SUB and want to try something that might give you slightly better results without spending TexPrint money, ProSub is worth a test run.

Best for: Budget-conscious crafters who do not want to sacrifice quality. Small businesses watching their cost per unit.

5. Printers Jack — Best Budget Option

Printers Jack is the go-to budget sublimation paper that gets the job done without breaking the bank. It produces good (not exceptional) color vibrancy, dries at a reasonable speed, and works with all common Epson sublimation setups.

Where Printers Jack shines is value per sheet. You get a lot of paper for the money, which makes it ideal for practice prints, testing designs, and everyday projects where you go through paper quickly. If you are a beginner still dialing in your settings and expect to waste a few sheets figuring things out, starting with a budget paper makes sense.

The main difference compared to A-SUB or TexPrint is that colors can be slightly less vibrant, and drying time is a bit longer. For mugs with text, keychains, and simple designs, many crafters will not notice much difference. For photo-realistic prints or designs with subtle gradients, A-SUB or TexPrint will give you better results.

How to identify the coated side: Printers Jack has a different colored back, making it easy to tell the front from the back at a glance.

Best for: Beginners, practice prints, and high-volume simple designs where budget matters most.

6. HTVRONT — Best for Availability

HTVRONT has become a major player in the sublimation paper market. They offer a 120gsm paper that works well across all common sublimation projects and is consistently in stock on Amazon with Prime delivery.

Paper quality is comparable to Printers Jack. Good for everyday use, reliable results, competitive pricing. HTVRONT also makes sublimation ink, so if you are using their ink already, buying their paper keeps your supply chain simple. That said, any sublimation paper works with any sublimation ink. Brand matching is convenience, not necessity.

HTVRONT is a particularly good choice if you are buying your sublimation supplies as a bundle. They sell starter kits that include paper, ink, and heat tape together, which can save time for beginners setting up for the first time.

Best for: Crafters who value easy ordering and consistent stock. Good option for bundling with HTVRONT ink.

7. Hiipoo — Best with Hiipoo Ink

If you are already using Hiipoo sublimation ink (one of the most popular third-party inks for converted Epsons), Hiipoo’s sublimation paper is a natural pairing. Some users report slightly better results with the matched combination compared to mixing brands, though the difference is subtle.

The paper itself is a 120gsm offering with good color reproduction and reasonable drying time. It falls in the mid-range category, better than the cheapest options, not quite at TexPrint level. Heavier papers like 120–125gsm often feel easier to manage in humid conditions because they tend to curl less than very thin sheets.

My tip: Matching your paper brand to your ink brand is more convenience than science. Hiipoo paper works fine with Printers Jack ink, A-SUB paper works fine with Hiipoo ink. Do not stress about brand matching. Pick the paper that fits your budget and project needs.

Best for: Hiipoo ink users who want a matched setup. Crafters in humid climates.

8. Koala — Best for High-Volume Production

Koala sells several sublimation paper weights, including thinner and thicker options. Their heavier papers (120–125gsm) are among the easiest to handle on this list. They feed through printers without curling and are very forgiving for beginners.

Color vibrancy is decent but not outstanding. For bold graphic designs, text-based mugs, and simple patterns, Koala works well. For photo-realistic designs where color accuracy matters, you may notice a slight washout compared to A-SUB or TexPrint.

Koala comes in a 150-sheet pack which gives you excellent value per sheet. If you are doing high-volume production of simple designs, like personalized mugs with names or basic graphics for a craft fair — Koala keeps your paper costs low.

Best for: High-volume production, craft fairs, and beginners who want easy-to-handle paper.

Which Sublimation Paper for Which Project?

Not every project needs the same paper. Here is what to use based on what you are making:

Project	Recommended Paper	GSM	Why
Mugs and tumblers	A-SUB 105gsm, TexPrint-R, or ProSub	105	Thinner paper wraps better around curved surfaces
Shirts and fabric	A-SUB 125gsm, TexPrint XPHR, or Printers Jack	120-125	Sits flatter, less shifting during pressing
Keychains and ornaments	Any paper works	Any	Small designs — paper quality matters less at this size
Photo-realistic prints	TexPrint-R	105	Best color accuracy and natural tones
Glass coasters	A-SUB 105gsm or TexPrint-R	105	Glass shows color differences more than other substrates
Bold graphics and logos	TexPrint XPHR	105	Enhanced contrast and deeper blacks
Practice and testing	Printers Jack, HTVRONT, or Koala	120-125	Save money on sheets you might waste while learning

For full pressing settings for each project type, check the mug temperature and time guide, the glass sublimation guide, or the acrylic sublimation guide.

How to Identify the Coated Side (Every Brand)

Printing on the wrong side is one of the most common sublimation mistakes — and every paper brand makes it slightly different to tell the sides apart. Coated-side identification can vary by seller and packaging revision, so treat the tips below as practical checks rather than universal rules:

Paper	How to Tell
A-SUB	Text printed on the back. Coated side is blank, brighter, and slightly shinier.
TexPrint-R / XPHR	Coated side feels smoother. Back has a slightly rougher texture.
ProSub	Backing is clearly marked with text. Print on the unmarked side.
Printers Jack	Back is a different color than the front. Print on the whiter side.
HTVRONT	Coated side is brighter white. Hold up to light — shinier side is the print side.
Hiipoo	Coated side is slightly whiter and smoother to the touch.
Koala	Coated side is brighter. Some packs have a small logo on the back.

My tip: If you are ever unsure, run your finger across both sides. The coated side feels slightly smoother and slicker. You can also print a small test square on both sides of a scrap piece — the wrong side will look obviously faded.

Common Sublimation Paper Problems (and Fixes)

Before you blame your paper, check these common issues first. Most sublimation paper problems are actually caused by storage, handling, or settings, not the paper itself.

Prints come out faded. This is usually moisture in the paper, not a bad brand. Sublimation paper absorbs humidity from the air, and that moisture interferes with ink transfer during pressing. Store your paper in a sealed bag with silica gel packets, especially in humid climates. You can also pre-press blank sheets for 5-10 seconds to drive out moisture before printing on them.

Paper curling after printing. Thinner papers (105gsm) curl more, especially with heavy ink coverage. Let your paper sit for a few minutes after printing before pressing. This allows the ink to absorb evenly. If curling is a constant problem, switch to 120-125gsm paper or reduce your ink density in the printer settings.

Lines or streaks on the print. This is almost always a printer issue, not a paper issue. Run a nozzle check and head cleaning on your printer. If you see white horizontal lines, one or more nozzles are clogged. See the sublimation color problems guide for detailed fixes.

Paper sticking to the substrate. This happens when temperature is too high or pressing time is too long. It can also happen with cheaper papers that have less heat-resistant coatings. Reduce your temperature by 5-10 degrees and check your time. The paper stuck to tumbler guide covers this in detail.

Ghosting (shadow or double image). Ghosting happens when the paper shifts during pressing, not because of the paper brand. Make sure your paper is firmly taped down with heat-resistant tape on all edges. For mugs, use shrink wrap to keep the paper tight. Full ghosting fixes are in the sublimation ghosting guide.

How to Store Sublimation Paper

Proper storage extends the life of your sublimation paper and prevents moisture-related printing problems. Keep paper in its original sealed packaging until you need it. Once opened, store remaining sheets in a large ziplock bag or airtight container with a silica gel packet inside.

Keep paper away from direct sunlight and in a room with low humidity if possible. If you live in a humid climate (above 60% humidity), paper storage is especially important. Humid paper is the number one cause of faded, blotchy sublimation prints that beginners blame on “bad paper.”

If you notice your paper curling or feeling damp before printing, pre-press blank sheets on your heat press for 5-10 seconds to drive out the moisture. This simple step can dramatically improve your print quality, especially during humid summer months.

My tip: If your colors look off, do not automatically assume the paper is the problem. On EcoTank setups, printer settings, ICC profile, and humidity often make a bigger difference than switching from one decent paper brand to another. Many brands advertise very high transfer efficiency, but in practice your printer profile, ink load, humidity, and press settings matter just as much as the paper itself.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does sublimation paper brand really matter?

For most everyday projects — mugs with text, keychains, simple shirt designs — the difference between A-SUB, Printers Jack, and other decent papers is small. Where paper quality really shows is in photo-realistic prints and designs with subtle color gradients. That is where TexPrint and, in some setups, ProSub can look a bit better than cheaper papers.

Can I use regular inkjet paper for sublimation?

No. Regular paper does not have the coating that holds sublimation ink and releases it during heat pressing. The ink soaks into the paper fibers and very little transfers to your substrate. You need paper specifically made for sublimation. For more on this, see the regular printer for sublimation guide.

What GSM sublimation paper should I use?

For beginners, 120-125gsm is easier to work with because it feeds reliably and does not curl. For mugs and curved surfaces, 105gsm is often easier to wrap around curved blanks. For shirts and flat substrates, 120-125gsm can feel easier to handle on flatter projects. Both work well. The difference is noticeable but not dramatic for most projects.

Why are my sublimation prints coming out faded?

Faded prints are usually caused by moisture in the paper, printing on the wrong side, or incorrect heat press settings, not the paper brand itself. Make sure you are printing on the coated side, storing paper in a dry place, and using the correct temperature and time. The sublimation not transferring guide covers all causes.

Is more expensive sublimation paper worth it?

For everyday crafting — mugs, keychains, simple shirts — budget papers like Printers Jack and HTVRONT produce results that are good enough for personal use and most small business applications. Premium paper like TexPrint can be worth it when color consistency matters more than cost, such as for photo gifts, portraits, or color-sensitive designs.

What is the difference between TexPrint-R and TexPrint XPHR?

The heavier TexPrint variant tends to keep colors closer to your original artwork with more natural tones — often preferred for photographs and portraits. The lighter XPHR-style variant tends to look a bit punchier with bolder contrast, and is positioned as a hybrid for both hard and soft substrates. Product naming varies by seller, so check what you are buying.

How do I know which side to print on?

The coated side is usually brighter, whiter, and slightly shinier. Many brands mark the back side with text or a different color — see the coated side identification table above for brand-specific instructions. When in doubt, run your finger across both sides. The coated side feels smoother. You can also print a small test on both sides of a scrap piece.

How many sheets of sublimation paper do I need?

A 110-sheet pack is a good starting point for beginners. Expect to waste 10-20 sheets on test prints and mistakes while you dial in your settings. If you are running a sublimation business, you will go through paper quickly, so plan for 5-20 sheets per day depending on production volume. Buying 200+ sheet packs reduces your cost per sheet.